In May 2024, my partner and I were on the hunt for the cheapest flights under three hours from London. When we found return flights to Tirana, Albania, for just £30 per person, our interest was piqued. Having never heard much about this small Balkan country, we dived into some research—and it turned out to be one of the best trips we’ve ever taken.
Our first discovery was that Tirana is Albania’s capital, located in the north of the country. Meanwhile, Sarandë, a popular tourist hotspot, lies far to the south. Naturally, the solution was a road trip!
We hired a car for under £100 for four days and planned a scenic route. The drive would take us along the coast, through the mountains, and down to Sarandë.
Day 1: Tirana to Durrës, Vlorë and Beyond
Our first stop was Durrës, a charming coastal town rich in Roman history. Highlights included a remarkably well-preserved amphitheatre and a beautiful Venetian tower. By sheer luck, we visited on National Museum Day, so entry to many sites was free!
After Durrës, we drove to Vlorë for lunch and then made our way to St. Mary’s Monastery on Zvërnec Island in the Narta Lagoon. This spot is easily one of the most picturesque in Albania, and free parking made exploring hassle-free.
From Vlorë, we began the breathtaking drive through the mountains and down the famous Llogara Pass—one of Europe’s most spectacular roads. The views from the top were incredible, with the sea stretching out below. However, the steep drops and uneven roads make it best suited for confident drivers.
Descending the pass, we passed countless pristine beaches with crystal-clear waters—a hallmark of Albania’s coastline.
Day 2-3: Exploring Sarandë and Ksamil
Arriving in Sarandë after dark, we navigated the narrow, traffic-heavy roads and found parking outside our hotel for €20 for two nights. Sarandë is a typical Mediterranean tourist town, but cleaner and more charming. With its seafood restaurants, beach clubs, boat trips, and bars, it’s a lively yet relaxed destination.
A short 20-minute drive from Sarandë brought us to Ksamil, which quickly became one of my favourite places in Europe. Stunning beaches, islands to swim to, and affordable sunbeds (just €20 for a premium spot) made for an unforgettable experience. Drinks, like a well-made cocktail, cost around €9—a bargain considering the surroundings.
We spent both days in Ksamil, savouring its beauty and the warm hospitality.
Day 4: Inland Route Through Berat
On our return journey to Tirana, we took the more direct inland route, stopping in Berat, “The Town of a Thousand Windows.” Before reaching Berat, we visited a winery where €15 covered a full platter of food, three wine samples, and a guided tour—excellent value!
Another must-see stop was the Blue Eye, a natural spring where crystal-clear water bubbles up from the earth. We opted for electric scooters to cover the mile-long uphill walk in the heat, which was both fun and practical.
Berat itself was a delight, with its bright, historical buildings and a castle overlooking the town. Unfortunately, the heat deterred us from climbing to the castle, but we enjoyed strolling through the picturesque streets and had a relaxing lunch.
Kantina e Verës ISAK – Winery
Final Thoughts
Albania turned out to be a hidden gem. From stunning coastal drives and historic towns to crystal-clear beaches and incredible value for money, it exceeded all our expectations. If you’re looking for an affordable adventure with unforgettable scenery, Albania should be at the top of your list!
Costs:
Flights: £30 Return per person
Car: £92 (+ fuel of about 50 Euros) for 4 days
Accommodation: 1 night in Tirana £33. 3 nights in Sarandë £112 at 4* Hotel JoAn.
Recommendations:
The Blue Eye
Kantina e Verës ISAK – Winery
Lost Seaside Beach Club (Sarandë)
Veranda Beach Club (Ksamil)
Top Tips:
Parking is free or cheap. Take advantage.
The roads outside of cities and towns are wide and long and the Albanian drivers are confident yet calm. Inside the cities and towns, it is more like organised chaos. Be prepared for horns and cars squeezing through gaps too small for them.
Use your travel day to explore the north. There is no real need to stay up north for too long. Take a break in Duress and Vlores.
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